Discovering fraud, circa dating jewelry, and expert jewelry appraisal

This week we examined a ring which was sold and claimed to be made in 1750.  The age of a piece of jewelry can, certain times, drastically increase its value.  Circa dating a piece can be difficult and often takes expert specialty knowledge, advanced testing, and experience to get it right.  Recently we had the pleasure of inspecting this bauble above for a full evaluation.  The evaluation was multifold and one of the purposes was to determine the age of this piece.  It was reported by the seller that this piece was made in 1750.  This is often one of the most difficult things to do in jewelry, circa date that is.  Many jewelers have never seen pieces that old.  Some jewelers do not understand how to date items properly.  Some, quite frankly, just make it up. 

At first glance many jewelry appraisers may take a look at this ring and say "sure that sounds correct" however it would be a grave misconception.  After inspection of the ring we found many inconsistencies with aging this piece to 1750.  Firstly construction, as experts in our field we have examined many pieces from the era and are quite familiar with build type, finish work, setting work, and so much more from antique pieces.  Certain consistencies in this piece and inconsistencies tell the store of age.  (Our knowledge here is proprietary sorry other appraisers).  That being said we can help you with circa dating this ring without considering the construction of the ring.  

Many of you professional appraisers may be thinking, sure its the stone type, or stone shape, or cut of the center...unfortunately those details would not be as helpful as you would like.  There is one key element to this ring that does help date it. That is.....the.....design!  Yes the design of this ring helps to tell us at the very least, the earliest it may have been made.  This ring was sold to the customer as a gimmel ring, or Fede ring.  The first thing to note is that it is NOT either of the above.  That style generally opens and closes and features two hands clasping each other at the close.  Though there are examples of Fede rings that do not open and simple show hands clasping, this is NOT one of those.  Notice that both hands are open and holding the central heart.  You may be thinking well that is obvious.  If so you may be thinking that this ring is a Claddagh ring.  You'd be... RIGHT...sort of.  Diving deeper you will notice the general design does resemble a claddagh ring however it is missing one key element.  That element is what dates this ring (at least tells us the earliest it is likely to be made).  It's the typical crown that generally rests a top the heart.  This version of the claddagh ring with NO CROWN originated in Dublin Ireland and was not known until the 1800's.  It is now known as the Fenian Claddagh, or Dublin Claddagh.  This design is said to have originated by those in Dublin wishing to gain independence from British rule thus removing the crown.  Thus it is impossible for this ring to be older than when the design was first made. 

There are many key take aways for those of you not in jewelry. 
First is seek knowledge.  Understand what you are looking at and looking for.  If you are unsure most jewelry companies are happy to help and educate.  We feel our job is to educate buyers and will always "nerd out" in jewelry.

Second is purchase from reputable sellers.  It is always paramount to find honest, trustworthy, and forthcoming people and businesses this will help eliminate extra time, money, and head/heart ache in learning about pieces the hard way.  

Third, not all appraisers are created equal just as all doctors, surgeons, mechanics, or any other job.  There are experts in each field and their knowledge can drastically help you. 

If you have a piece you need help with never hesitate to email us.
We are expert jewelry appraisers, gemstone appraisers, diamond appraisers, and watch appraisers.  Our services are many from expert witness in jewelry to jewelry liquidation appraiser.  We have helped with estate appraisals as well as settlement appraisals.  We are happy to help.  To read more about our appraisal services check out our appraisal page here.