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Vintage Rolex

Vintage Rolex Reference Guide

REFERENCE NUMBER APPEARANCE AND LOCATION
A pre-owned Rolex reference number is as unique as the fingerprints of its owner. Every pre-owned Rolex has a different reference number that is located between the lugs  of the watch at the 12 o'clock position.  Many counterfeit watches have a completely fictitious reference number and some may not even have one.  Here are a few things that will help you in establishing the authenticity of your pre-owned Rolex watch based on the reference number:
​
  • The reference number inscription should resemble a diamond engraving and not an acid etched look.  
  • Pre-owned Rolex models pre 1980's carry a four digit reference number.
  • Pre-owned Rolex models released between 1980's and 2000 will have a 5 digit number.
  • The first three digits of the reference number indicate the model type on the traditional Rolex models.
  • Pre-owned ​Rolex models released between 2000 and the present have a 6 digit reference number with a number "1" prefacing the 5 digit reference number.  The numeric preface may change as more models are being released.
  • The 5th digit references to the bezel type
  • The 6th digit references the bracelet type.

​
                           MODELS BY THE FIRST DIGITS
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Below are some of the most popular pre-owned Rolex models and their reference numbers. Be aware that this is not a complete list of pre-owned Rolex reference numbers. If you are ever in doubt about a reference number of your watch, a simple Google search will likely tell you if you are in a possession of a genuine pre-owned Rolex watch. If the internet is of no help to you, we suggest contacting a reputable Rolex dealer, a watchmaker, Rolex, or emailing us if you are thinking of selling your timepiece.

                                                    MODELS AND CORRESPONDING REFERENCE NUMBERS
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​HOW TO DETERMINE THE CORRECT BEZEL OPTION OF YOUR PRE-OWNED ROLEX
It is not uncommon to find a truly stunning, genuine pre-owned Rolex where the bezel, dial, markers and the bracelet have been changed to cater to the style and character of the previous owner. This practice is so widespread that it is commonly accepted as long as the parts are genuine Rolex parts. However, if you are a true purist and want to make sure that your watch is in truly pristine and untouched condition, the following is an explanation on how to determine the original bezel type of your pre-owned ​Rolex with a production date starting in the 1980's to the present.
The code that delineates the bezel type is located within the Reference (Model) number of your Rolex. The 5th digit of the number is the bezel code.

                                                                          BEZEL CODE REFERENCE
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HOW TO DETERMINE THE CORRECT BRACELET OPTION OF YOUR ROLEX
If you are purchasing a pre-owned Rolex, it is not uncommon to find that the bracelet has been replaced. As mentioned previously, this generally does not lower the value of the watch unless the bracelet has been exchanged from a precious metal to a leather strap and so on.  In order to determine the bracelet type, locate the  Reference Number  and look at 6th digit. The last digit generally indicates the type of bracelet used for the your particular watch model.

                                                                         BRACELET CODE REFERENCE
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PRE-OWNED ROLEX CLASP CODES
A genuine pre-owned Rolex watch will have a set of letters and numbers on the inside of the clasp hinge. The letters and numbers designate the year and the month of the bracelet manufacturing. So if the inside of the bracelet is stamped OP9, that means that the bracelet was manufactured in September of 2006.
Be aware that it is not uncommon to find a newer watch with an older bracelet and vice versa. Especially in the pre-owned market, previous owners will often switch out bracelets to match their personal taste. This practice does not devalue the watch as long as the bracelet was replaced with a genuine pre-owned Rolex bracelet that matches the style and the precious metals in the watch itself.
Some pre-owned ​Rolex models came with a leather strap or a cloth strap. This is common in vintage models and dress models.

​

                                                                        ROLEX CLASP CODE REFERENCE
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PRE-OWNED ROLEX SERIAL NUMBERS
Pre-owned Rolex serial number is also known as the case number or a style number and is located between the lugs  at the 6 o'clock position. The serial number of a pre-owned Rolex watch is used to date the watch and establish its market value and authenticity.  In the case of vintage watches, the older the watch, the higher the price. Some collectors search for years before they find a specific serial number to add to their collection. Below we explain what each part of a Rolex serial number means and how to establish authenticity of your watch.
Starting in the 1920's Rolex began the practice of stamping all of their watches with serial numbers. In 1950's, the serial numbers reached 999, 999 mark and the  count was restarted from 100,001. In the 1960's the mark of 999,999 was reached once again and in order to prevent confusion, Rolex added a 7th digit to their serial number.  In the 1980's 9, 999,999 mark was reached at which point Rolex began adding a letter to their serial numbers. So far, letters " R", "L", "E", "X", "N", "C", "S", "W", "T", "U", "A", "P", "K, "Y", "F" and "D" were used.

Pre-owned ​Rolex watches produced between 1950's and 1970's have a Roman numeral and an two digit Arabic numeral code  that appears on the case back.  The Roman numerals that are used are I, II, III, and IV delineating the quarter in which the watch was produced, the two digit Arabic numeral code signifies the year of production.

                                   LIST OF SERIAL NUMBERS WITH THE CORRESPONDING YEAR OF PRODUCTION:
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  • Home
  • Antique & Vintage
    • Latest Finds
    • Shop By Era
    • Engagement Rings
    • Stackable Bands
    • Cocktail Rings
    • Timepieces
    • Gentlemans Accessories >
      • Gentleman's Rings
    • Bracelets
    • Earrings
    • Necklaces & Pendants >
      • Charms & Pendants
      • Chains
    • Diamonds & Gems
    • Signed Jewelry
    • From The Vault
    • The Archives: A Collection of Sold Items
    • Final Sale Items
  • Custom
    • Custom Jewelry
    • Custom Engagement Rings
    • Recreating an Heirloom
    • Family Crest Jewelry
    • Design Process
    • Schedule Consultation
    • For The Trade
    • More For The Trade
  • Sell To Us
  • Services
    • Appraisal Services >
      • Jewelry Insurance
      • Appraisals
      • SELL TO US
      • Exchange
      • Museum Collection Services
    • Schedule Consultation
    • Custom Jewelry Design
    • Recreating an Heirloom
    • Jewelry Repair
    • Timepiece Repair
    • Diamond Cutting and Gemstone Repair
    • Find Jewelry For Me
    • Find a Watch For Me
    • Find a Diamond
    • Jewelry Rental
    • Insurance Replacement
    • Private Collection Management
    • Layaway Plan
    • Consignment
    • Wholesale Inquiries >
      • Host a Trunk Show
  • The Brand
    • Our History >
      • Sustainability
      • Military and First Responder Discounts
      • Kimberly Process
    • Our Experts
    • Jewelry School >
      • Educational Session
      • Eras of Style >
        • Ancient
        • Medieval & Renaissance
        • Baroque & Rococo
        • Georgian
        • Victorian
        • Edwardian
        • Art Nouveau
        • Arts & Crafts
        • Art Deco
        • Retro
        • Hollywood Glam
        • Mid-Century Modern
        • Brutalist
        • Art Organique
        • Contemporary
        • Simplistic
      • Diamonds & Gems >
        • Gemstone Education >
          • Gemstone Laboratories
          • All About Gemstones
          • Approximate Gemstone weights
          • Carat to MM Conversion
          • Gemstone Colors
          • Created, Synthetic & Simulated Gemstones
          • Equivalents Chart
        • Diamond Education >
          • Diamond Carat Weight by MM
          • Comparative Round Size Info
          • Diamond Cutting and Gemstone Repair
          • Lab Grown Diamonds
      • Counterfeit Jewelry & Watch Identification
      • Engagement Rings
      • Diamond Earrings
      • Timepieces >
        • Vintage Rolex
        • Watch Terms
      • Ring Designs & Sizings >
        • Men's Wedding Band Finishes
        • Ring Width
        • Ring Size
        • Wrist Size
      • Custom Jewelry
      • Metals
      • Engraving
      • Birthstones
      • Jewelry Care
      • Jewelry Terms
    • Makers Biographies
    • Press
    • Be Social
    • Gems by VBS The BLOG
    • Reviews
    • Advice >
      • The Courtship
      • The Wedding
    • Events
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  • Contact