Diamonds
Diamonds have captivated us for centuries with an almost mythic status. There are many factors that are critical in selecting the right diamond. These factors are called "The Four C's" and help you compare the different characteristics of diamonds.
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COLOR:
The color evaluation of gem-quality diamonds is based on the absence of color. A chemically pure and structurally perfect diamond has no hue and consequently, a higher value. The Gemological Institute of America's diamond grading scale is the industry's most widely accepted and respected grading system. The scale begins with the letter D, representing a colorless diamond, and continues, with increasing presence of color, to the letter Z. The diamond’s color is established by comparing a diamond under controlled lighting and viewing conditions against a set of master stones. Many of these color distinctions are so subtle that they are invisible to the untrained eye. These distinctions, however, make a very big difference in diamond pricing. |
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CLARITY:
Natural diamonds are the result of carbon exposed to tremendous heat and pressure deep within the earth. This process can result in a variety of internal characteristics called ‘inclusions’ Evaluating diamond clarity involves determining the quantity, size, relief, nature, and position of these characteristics, as well as how they affect the overall appearance of the stone. |
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CUT
Diamonds are renowned for their ability to transmit light. We often think that diamond ‘cut’ is referring to the overall shape of the stone (round, emerald, princess, etc.), Diamonds, however, are also evaluated, when they are round stones, on their cut grade. This grade refers to how diamond facets interact with light. Precise artistry and workmanship are required to fashion a stone so its proportions, symmetry, and polish deliver a magnificent return of light. The Gemological Institute of America evaluates how successfully a diamond interacts with light to create desirable visual effects such as: Brightness: Internal and external white light reflected from a diamond Dispersion (Fire): The scattering of white light into all the colors of the rainbow Scintillation: The amount of sparkle a diamond produces, and the pattern of light and dark areas caused by reflections within the gem. |
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CARAT WEIGHT
Diamond carat weight is the measurement of how much a diamond weighs which directly correlates to the size of a stone. A metric “carat” is defined as 200 milligrams. Each carat can be divided into 100 ‘points.’ This allows a precise measurement to the hundredth decimal place. Diamond price generally increases with diamond carat weight if all other factors and grades of the diamond are the same. This is the case because larger diamonds are far more rare and more desirable. View our MM Millimeter to Carat weight chart here. |
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FANCY COLOR DIAMONDS Only one in 10,000 diamonds qualify as a fancy color. The grading scale is located to the left. The traditional color scale (D‐Z) does not apply to fancy colors. Hue and vibrancy are the most important factors in valuing a color diamond. Inclusions (clarity) play a much less important role in pricing unless they significantly detract from the diamond’s face up appearance or the gem’s overall durability. Below are the hues of color and their influences. 
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Shape (also referred to as Cut):
This refers to the top down overall shape of the stone. Traditionally, the shape of the stone was known as the cut grade, however, today cut grade is further broken down in round stones to determine how well they transmit light. |
The Evolution of the Brilliant Cut Diamond
In the Beginning
The first diamonds were found in India. They were considered sacred objects that were believed to have possessed magical powers. Originally these stones were left raw and uncut. In the 11th century were diamonds began to be worn in jewelry but still in an uncut form. Diamond cutting began in the 14th century and were basically cleaved to into a point on top to show some of the life within the stone. The generally left and featuring the original shape of the rough stone. By the beginning of the 15th century point cut diamonds had advanced and not just the top of the stone was polished.
Evolution of the Table Cuts & Single Cuts
The table cut was the first major faceting technique to be used. By the middle of the 15th century, a little less than one half of the original octahedron would be sawn off, this created a polished surface on both the top and bottom of the diamond. Since the stone now had a different shape than the point cut or evolved rose cut, and had a flat top it became known as the table cut. This also lead to the discovery of having a culet (the bottom most part of a typical diamond). With the introduction of a completely polished stone more brilliance and fire was displayed. This table cut also revealed another cut, the single cut.
The Rose cut
In the 16th century diamond cutters began to create tools to cut facets. This lead way to improved technology which mean a new version of the table cut, the rose cut. This was less crude than the original stones, it featured more facets and created more sparkle. Like the table cut, other cutters began to explore better shaped single cuts and started to transition these stones. At this time, early bruting, faceting, and polishing of diamonds began in Europe.
Until this time most of the diamond trade took place in India, their original place of discovery. European cutters began to transition these cuts. As cutting techniques matured, diamond demand grew but supply did not. It was not until the discovery of African mines in the late 19th century that even more developments of cut, and cutting techniques took place.
Rose cut diamonds improved further to a twenty-four (24) facet stone in antwerp and facets began to be triangular in shape. These stones also began to become more symmetrical than the ones being cut in Indian. European cutters pushed further on the demand of Royalty. This simultaneously lead to the development of the briolette cut which also had polish on all sides of the stone but was more bead in shape than the flat bottom of the rose cut.
The Birth of Old Mine Cut diamonds
By the 17th century cutters took the early single cut which was not developed as the early table cut was and began to change the look of diamonds. Venetian cutters began to add more facets to single cuts and polish the entire surface of the stone (with the exception of the girdle as technology was not there yet) they added the triangular facets creating the Mazarin cut and peruzzi cut. These were more squarish/ cushiony in shape as the technology to round was no there yet. The early 18th century saw a rise of diamond production in Brazil and the coming of new rounded or cushion shaped diamonds. These new more cushiony and near rounded stones changed cutting again to become known as old mine cut diamonds. These are the cornerstone of the modern round brilliant cut diamond. Developed in 18th century Europe, these cuts were not round but had a slightly curved edge which formed a soft cushiony square. They were made with a variety of facet patterns but always with a small table, high crown, and larger culet, giving them an architectural look. This also lead to other shapes like the navel cut (marquise cut) which left original rough and changed the outside shape of the stone.
Old European cut Diamonds
The invention of the bruting machine, a steam-driven machine, and motorized saw in the late 1800s revolutionized diamond cutting. These tools enabled cutters to precisely shape rounder and more brilliant diamonds. This allowed expert cutters to create a new cut, the Old European cut diamond. These stones are more round than the cushiony shape of the Old Mine cut diamonds. They also have a shallower crown and different arrangement of facets. Then, in the mid 19th century the diamond rush began with the discovery mines in South Africa. This new supply helped the ancient craft of diamond cutting to emerge as a modern industry.
The Brilliant Cut
Around 1919 Marcel Tolkowsky began to use mathematical formulas to calculate the brilliance of European cut stones and created the first ever Round Brilliant Cut. During this time other cutters were pushing forward with other shapes as well. The birth of The asscher cut, emerald cut, and ovals began to move forward in production. Demand for the new ‘round’ cut diamond soared as light return from these stones was never seen like this before.
Changes in Cutting
As demand for stones increased, so did the demand for other cuts. So the Asscher, and emerald cut were born replacing the step cut and table cut diamonds. These cuts also developed the baguette cut. In the 1920’s the asscher began to gain in popularity and emerald cuts trailed behind until the shape was more standardized in the 1940s. The step cut emerged as one of the first faceted diamond cuts, third in line after the point cut and the table cut. These step cut stones were perfect for those looking for something a little different than the brilliant cut. These cuts along with other developments helped lead way for the marquise, oval cut, heart cut, and princess cut along with many other cuts.
The first diamonds were found in India. They were considered sacred objects that were believed to have possessed magical powers. Originally these stones were left raw and uncut. In the 11th century were diamonds began to be worn in jewelry but still in an uncut form. Diamond cutting began in the 14th century and were basically cleaved to into a point on top to show some of the life within the stone. The generally left and featuring the original shape of the rough stone. By the beginning of the 15th century point cut diamonds had advanced and not just the top of the stone was polished.
Evolution of the Table Cuts & Single Cuts
The table cut was the first major faceting technique to be used. By the middle of the 15th century, a little less than one half of the original octahedron would be sawn off, this created a polished surface on both the top and bottom of the diamond. Since the stone now had a different shape than the point cut or evolved rose cut, and had a flat top it became known as the table cut. This also lead to the discovery of having a culet (the bottom most part of a typical diamond). With the introduction of a completely polished stone more brilliance and fire was displayed. This table cut also revealed another cut, the single cut.
The Rose cut
In the 16th century diamond cutters began to create tools to cut facets. This lead way to improved technology which mean a new version of the table cut, the rose cut. This was less crude than the original stones, it featured more facets and created more sparkle. Like the table cut, other cutters began to explore better shaped single cuts and started to transition these stones. At this time, early bruting, faceting, and polishing of diamonds began in Europe.
Until this time most of the diamond trade took place in India, their original place of discovery. European cutters began to transition these cuts. As cutting techniques matured, diamond demand grew but supply did not. It was not until the discovery of African mines in the late 19th century that even more developments of cut, and cutting techniques took place.
Rose cut diamonds improved further to a twenty-four (24) facet stone in antwerp and facets began to be triangular in shape. These stones also began to become more symmetrical than the ones being cut in Indian. European cutters pushed further on the demand of Royalty. This simultaneously lead to the development of the briolette cut which also had polish on all sides of the stone but was more bead in shape than the flat bottom of the rose cut.
The Birth of Old Mine Cut diamonds
By the 17th century cutters took the early single cut which was not developed as the early table cut was and began to change the look of diamonds. Venetian cutters began to add more facets to single cuts and polish the entire surface of the stone (with the exception of the girdle as technology was not there yet) they added the triangular facets creating the Mazarin cut and peruzzi cut. These were more squarish/ cushiony in shape as the technology to round was no there yet. The early 18th century saw a rise of diamond production in Brazil and the coming of new rounded or cushion shaped diamonds. These new more cushiony and near rounded stones changed cutting again to become known as old mine cut diamonds. These are the cornerstone of the modern round brilliant cut diamond. Developed in 18th century Europe, these cuts were not round but had a slightly curved edge which formed a soft cushiony square. They were made with a variety of facet patterns but always with a small table, high crown, and larger culet, giving them an architectural look. This also lead to other shapes like the navel cut (marquise cut) which left original rough and changed the outside shape of the stone.
Old European cut Diamonds
The invention of the bruting machine, a steam-driven machine, and motorized saw in the late 1800s revolutionized diamond cutting. These tools enabled cutters to precisely shape rounder and more brilliant diamonds. This allowed expert cutters to create a new cut, the Old European cut diamond. These stones are more round than the cushiony shape of the Old Mine cut diamonds. They also have a shallower crown and different arrangement of facets. Then, in the mid 19th century the diamond rush began with the discovery mines in South Africa. This new supply helped the ancient craft of diamond cutting to emerge as a modern industry.
The Brilliant Cut
Around 1919 Marcel Tolkowsky began to use mathematical formulas to calculate the brilliance of European cut stones and created the first ever Round Brilliant Cut. During this time other cutters were pushing forward with other shapes as well. The birth of The asscher cut, emerald cut, and ovals began to move forward in production. Demand for the new ‘round’ cut diamond soared as light return from these stones was never seen like this before.
Changes in Cutting
As demand for stones increased, so did the demand for other cuts. So the Asscher, and emerald cut were born replacing the step cut and table cut diamonds. These cuts also developed the baguette cut. In the 1920’s the asscher began to gain in popularity and emerald cuts trailed behind until the shape was more standardized in the 1940s. The step cut emerged as one of the first faceted diamond cuts, third in line after the point cut and the table cut. These step cut stones were perfect for those looking for something a little different than the brilliant cut. These cuts along with other developments helped lead way for the marquise, oval cut, heart cut, and princess cut along with many other cuts.
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Rose Cut: Rose Cut diamonds became fashionable in the 1600’s and were very popular well into the 19th century. During this time jewelry was often created around the diamonds. Rose Cut diamonds were cut to the natural shape of the stone and fashioned with a flat bottom. Old Mine Cut: The Old Mine Cut was developed during the Industrial Revolution in Europe. During that time period, more diamonds were discovered in Brazil, so with a larger supply of inventory major advances in diamond cutting began to occur. This is the earliest design that shadows a Brilliant Cut stone. Old Mine Cut diamonds have high crowns, small tables, deep pavilions and 58 facets however contain sometimes an open culet and pointier corners. They display more brilliance and fire than Rose Cuts. Old European Cut: In the late 1800’s, further advances in technology allowed diamonds to be shaped on a diamond cutting wheel. This allowed the cutter to achieve a more circular outline, and thus the Old European Cut diamond was born. Also hand cut, this design had a larger table, 58 facets and better pavilion proportions. These new elements work together to let more light into the diamond and more brilliance reflected back to the eye. Modern Round Brilliant Cut: The Old European Cut diamond eventually became the model for the Modern Round Brilliant Cut diamond. Modern Round Brilliant Cut diamonds are generally still cut by hand today to release the maximum amount of brilliance, fire, and scintillation from the stone. The techniques used to cut brilliant diamonds were developed in the early 1900’s and still continue today. New cuts are always being developed in the pursuit of enhancing diamonds’ extraordinary capability of reflecting light in mesmerizing ways. |
Clarity Enhanced Diamonds
A CE diamond (Clarity Enhanced) is a 100% genuine natural diamond. The enhancing process seeks to correct small internal blemishes and tiny surface reaching cracks that all diamonds possess to a certain grade. These fissures are filled with a lead/glass mixture to create the appearance of a much cleaner stone. Clarity enhanced diamonds are much lower in price than non-enhanced diamonds, and the process of clarity enhancing a stone is not permanent.
A CE diamond (Clarity Enhanced) is a 100% genuine natural diamond. The enhancing process seeks to correct small internal blemishes and tiny surface reaching cracks that all diamonds possess to a certain grade. These fissures are filled with a lead/glass mixture to create the appearance of a much cleaner stone. Clarity enhanced diamonds are much lower in price than non-enhanced diamonds, and the process of clarity enhancing a stone is not permanent.
Synthetic Diamonds
A synthetic diamond is the result of a technological process (made in a laboratory), as opposed to the geological process (made underground) that creates natural diamonds. Synthetic diamonds have essentially the same chemical composition, crystal structure, optical, and physical properties of natural diamonds. Most synthetic diamonds are categorized as either high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) or chemical vapor deposition (CVD) diamonds, depending on the method of their production. The cost and rarity of man made diamonds is much less than that of rare natural diamonds.
It is important to know that ALL lab-created diamonds are color-enhanced. Natural diamonds can also be color-enhanced, but that must be fully disclosed when they are sold because it dramatically lowers their value. It is currently not being disclosed with lab-grown gems.
What about future value of synthetic diamonds? Since the 1880’s, when they were discovered in South Africa, diamonds have seen heightened demand and become our greatest symbol and icon of enduring love. Real diamond supply has depleted while the value of gem quality diamonds has steadily increased.
Since the appearance of synthetics on the market, their value has steadily decreased. Largely due to mechanical reproduction (cloning) and declining costs of technology in the foreseeable future, synthetics will be neither rare nor unique and their value will plummet.
A synthetic diamond is the result of a technological process (made in a laboratory), as opposed to the geological process (made underground) that creates natural diamonds. Synthetic diamonds have essentially the same chemical composition, crystal structure, optical, and physical properties of natural diamonds. Most synthetic diamonds are categorized as either high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) or chemical vapor deposition (CVD) diamonds, depending on the method of their production. The cost and rarity of man made diamonds is much less than that of rare natural diamonds.
It is important to know that ALL lab-created diamonds are color-enhanced. Natural diamonds can also be color-enhanced, but that must be fully disclosed when they are sold because it dramatically lowers their value. It is currently not being disclosed with lab-grown gems.
What about future value of synthetic diamonds? Since the 1880’s, when they were discovered in South Africa, diamonds have seen heightened demand and become our greatest symbol and icon of enduring love. Real diamond supply has depleted while the value of gem quality diamonds has steadily increased.
Since the appearance of synthetics on the market, their value has steadily decreased. Largely due to mechanical reproduction (cloning) and declining costs of technology in the foreseeable future, synthetics will be neither rare nor unique and their value will plummet.
Grading Services and Certifications
Selecting a diamond that is graded (or certified) by an independent organization is an extremely important factor in buying a diamond. This helps to insure that the grade of the diamond being sold is actually the grade of the diamond and helps to hold grading standards true. Here at Velvet Box Society, we ONLY offer diamonds graded by The Gemological Institute of America or GIA as it is abbreviated. GIA is the worlds foremost authority in gemology and has, in our opinion, the strictest grading standards in the industry. This allows apples to be compared to apples so to speak. GIA graded diamonds can be bought and sold by our company representatives without ever seeing the diamond as we are confident in the grading standards and practices of GIA. There are many other grading companies in the world, however Velvet Box Society feels that using the foremost authority in gemology is the standard by which we want to be held.
*image credit to Gemological Institute of America
Selecting a diamond that is graded (or certified) by an independent organization is an extremely important factor in buying a diamond. This helps to insure that the grade of the diamond being sold is actually the grade of the diamond and helps to hold grading standards true. Here at Velvet Box Society, we ONLY offer diamonds graded by The Gemological Institute of America or GIA as it is abbreviated. GIA is the worlds foremost authority in gemology and has, in our opinion, the strictest grading standards in the industry. This allows apples to be compared to apples so to speak. GIA graded diamonds can be bought and sold by our company representatives without ever seeing the diamond as we are confident in the grading standards and practices of GIA. There are many other grading companies in the world, however Velvet Box Society feels that using the foremost authority in gemology is the standard by which we want to be held.
*image credit to Gemological Institute of America
Conflict Free Diamonds Policy
Velvet Box Society shares your concerns of dealing with only 100% ethically mined minerals. We pride ourselves on not selling, trading, endorsing, or even engaging with any products sourced from conflict areas. In total compliance with the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS), the Patriot Act, and United Nations resolutions, we are committed to only working with legitimate diamonds, gemstones, and metals: 3TG (Tungsten, Tantalum, Tin, and Gold).
In addition, we requires legally bound contracts between all suppliers which ensure we obtained ethically mined, conflict-free goods only through legitimate means. Velvet Box Society does not purchase polished diamonds from areas affected by in just activity.
Velvet Box Society instills confidence in our clients by striving to do absolutely everything in our power to support a healthy ecosystem. This stems from the suppliers we deal with, through the goods we use, and into the products we sell. In today’s world with advanced technologies and interconnected communications, our commitment is to always uphold respect to all environmental, social, and safety practices. To read more about our commitments click here.
In addition, we requires legally bound contracts between all suppliers which ensure we obtained ethically mined, conflict-free goods only through legitimate means. Velvet Box Society does not purchase polished diamonds from areas affected by in just activity.
Velvet Box Society instills confidence in our clients by striving to do absolutely everything in our power to support a healthy ecosystem. This stems from the suppliers we deal with, through the goods we use, and into the products we sell. In today’s world with advanced technologies and interconnected communications, our commitment is to always uphold respect to all environmental, social, and safety practices. To read more about our commitments click here.
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