Cartier
Louis-François Cartier (1819-1904) opened a small jewelry store in Paris in 1847. He actually started as an apprentice and took over the shop he was apprenticing in recognizing the opportunity that the surging growth in a new middle class offered. He created a jewelry business that catered to the needs of that middle class. He kept an eye on what was fashionable, selling Egyptian revival style jewels, hair ornaments, and many other things. He attracted clients like Princess Mathilde and Empress Eugenie as well as many of Paris’ high society.
In 1874 his son Alfred (1841-1925) took over the shop and organized the participation of the firm in its first International Exhibition in London and began to draw an international crowd. Little jewelry can be found from the early years of Cartier but the archives show pieces in the popular revival style, an array of flora and fauna designs (in particular birds and flowers) as well as large diamond set pieces that were appealing to a broad range of contemporary tastes.
In 1898 Alfred’s eldest son Louis (1875-1942) joined his father in the business and it was renamed Alfred Cartier et Fils. The following year they moved to number 13 Rue de la Paix, where they remain today, and Louis took over responsibility for the store. Expanding quickly in 1902 they decided to open a branch in London at 4, New Burlington Street. Jacques (1884-1941) moved to London to run the shop and he decided to move it around the corner to its present location on New Bond Street in 1909. By this time Pierre (1878-1965) had joined his two brothers in the family firm. He traveled to New York where he opened a third branch of Cartier at 712 Fifth Avenue in 1909. The three brothers had taken the approach of ‘divide and conquer’ and whilst they excelled individually it was as a team that they were truly formidable. By 1910 they had earned the attention and business of King Edward VII, King Carlos of Portugal, the King of Siam and Tsar Nicholas II of Russia to name a few.
The use of platinum in jewelry became widespread at the turn of the century and this enabled Cartier to create incredibly fine metal work frames in which to set their diamonds and colored stones. In fact they were recorded as being the first company to use platinum in the new world. Their Garland style jewels were set with diamonds as well as pearls. The designer Charles Jacqueau (1885-1968) joined Cartier in 1909 and, inspired by the Ballet Russes, he studied the art of India, China, Egypt and Japan. This exotic influence helped push Cartier further. From 1911 until 1935 he would head a team of eleven designers in Paris creating jewelry in what would come to be known as the Art Deco style. These are the jewels that set Cartier apart from mostly all other jewelers and solidified their name. Cartier even creating one of the earliest wristwatches in 1904 for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont after he complained to Louis of the difficulty in using his pocket watch while flying. In 1917 the New York store relocated to 653 Fifth Avenue, its current address by exchanging a double row natural pearl necklace (worth $1 million) with Mr and Mrs Morton Plant. In Paris, Indian Maharajas were commissioning extraordinary jewels during this period like the Maharaja of Patiala necklace. Jacques brought back Indian carved gemstones and these were featured during the 1920’s and 30’s in a style referred to now as Tutti Frutti. Jean Toussaint joined Cartier in 1919 as a handbag and accessories designer. She was made Creative Director of jewelry in 1933 and brought the famous Cartier panther from an interesting decorative motif into the iconic image. After the deaths of both Louis and Jacques within a year of each other at the beginning of the 1940’s Pierre took sole control of the firm. In 1945 Jacques son Jean-Jacques took control of the London branch and Pierre returned to Paris leaving Louis’s son Claude in charge of New York. When Pierre retired he left his daughter Marion to run Paris and so it remained until 1962 when Claude sold Cartier New York. This was followed in 1966 with the sale of Paris and then in 1974 by London. Five years later the firm was ‘reunited’ by a merger between the new owners and the creation of ‘Cartier World’.
In 1874 his son Alfred (1841-1925) took over the shop and organized the participation of the firm in its first International Exhibition in London and began to draw an international crowd. Little jewelry can be found from the early years of Cartier but the archives show pieces in the popular revival style, an array of flora and fauna designs (in particular birds and flowers) as well as large diamond set pieces that were appealing to a broad range of contemporary tastes.
In 1898 Alfred’s eldest son Louis (1875-1942) joined his father in the business and it was renamed Alfred Cartier et Fils. The following year they moved to number 13 Rue de la Paix, where they remain today, and Louis took over responsibility for the store. Expanding quickly in 1902 they decided to open a branch in London at 4, New Burlington Street. Jacques (1884-1941) moved to London to run the shop and he decided to move it around the corner to its present location on New Bond Street in 1909. By this time Pierre (1878-1965) had joined his two brothers in the family firm. He traveled to New York where he opened a third branch of Cartier at 712 Fifth Avenue in 1909. The three brothers had taken the approach of ‘divide and conquer’ and whilst they excelled individually it was as a team that they were truly formidable. By 1910 they had earned the attention and business of King Edward VII, King Carlos of Portugal, the King of Siam and Tsar Nicholas II of Russia to name a few.
The use of platinum in jewelry became widespread at the turn of the century and this enabled Cartier to create incredibly fine metal work frames in which to set their diamonds and colored stones. In fact they were recorded as being the first company to use platinum in the new world. Their Garland style jewels were set with diamonds as well as pearls. The designer Charles Jacqueau (1885-1968) joined Cartier in 1909 and, inspired by the Ballet Russes, he studied the art of India, China, Egypt and Japan. This exotic influence helped push Cartier further. From 1911 until 1935 he would head a team of eleven designers in Paris creating jewelry in what would come to be known as the Art Deco style. These are the jewels that set Cartier apart from mostly all other jewelers and solidified their name. Cartier even creating one of the earliest wristwatches in 1904 for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont after he complained to Louis of the difficulty in using his pocket watch while flying. In 1917 the New York store relocated to 653 Fifth Avenue, its current address by exchanging a double row natural pearl necklace (worth $1 million) with Mr and Mrs Morton Plant. In Paris, Indian Maharajas were commissioning extraordinary jewels during this period like the Maharaja of Patiala necklace. Jacques brought back Indian carved gemstones and these were featured during the 1920’s and 30’s in a style referred to now as Tutti Frutti. Jean Toussaint joined Cartier in 1919 as a handbag and accessories designer. She was made Creative Director of jewelry in 1933 and brought the famous Cartier panther from an interesting decorative motif into the iconic image. After the deaths of both Louis and Jacques within a year of each other at the beginning of the 1940’s Pierre took sole control of the firm. In 1945 Jacques son Jean-Jacques took control of the London branch and Pierre returned to Paris leaving Louis’s son Claude in charge of New York. When Pierre retired he left his daughter Marion to run Paris and so it remained until 1962 when Claude sold Cartier New York. This was followed in 1966 with the sale of Paris and then in 1974 by London. Five years later the firm was ‘reunited’ by a merger between the new owners and the creation of ‘Cartier World’.
